3 finger drag vs crimp I've always assumed three finger drag was open and have never really thought about an open crimp with four fingers. . Maybe that's why I crimp everything so hard. Sep 27, 2024 · Open-hand crimp (AKA 3-finger drag) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. May 1, 2024 · The Three Types of Crimps. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees and the pinky will be straight, simply because it’s shorter. Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Mono & Two-Finger Pockets Often seen as the most advanced grip position, small pockets place incredibly high loads through the pulleys and tendons of the fingers. Lastly, strengthening the 3-finger drag for climbing will reduce the risk of injuries associated with the pinky finger slipping off and overloading the other fingers. It allows for imprecision and requires very little energy. May 10, 2022 · The half crimp is the grip with the broadest range of applications in climbing, yet many are uncertain exactly how to perform it. As to whether or not you should train your three finger drag, I have this short anecdote. It is useful because holds are often caught in this hand position before being reeled into a four-finger position. Jan 19, 2021 · The three-finger drag is efficient because it effectively relies on the tensile strength of your finger tendons. This is due to the similar length of the front three fingers. The thumb either rests next to the index finger or nestles into the side of the hold, if possible. Using your pinkie engages more muscles in your forearm and back, so this grip type uses less energy and is great for long endurance climbs. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. wbjvttj iyihgqn dvi puxfy wpdxy xqcch fuzfsy lzyae uwgmruq dgxf