Dmm offsets reddit the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. Might be interesting to make some funky nut or hex shapes, like extreme offsets or taper. With this rack can i scale most of the climbs around Norway. Camp Tricams, but only double up at the Gunks. In reality in the tiny sizes the details of the individual placement probably make more difference than theoretical cam mechanics. 5-3) for $225. Only downside is how easy it can be to set them a little too hard, lol. I have bought a full set of DMM offsets and I’m now starting to look at cams. I've have an alright rack consisting of DMM Offsets, DMM Wallnuts, BD Stoppers, Cams from . 3-3 (with doubles in 1 and a DMM Dragon doubles my 2, see below) and X4s from 0. 24 or so wiregate carabiners. 3 to 1 is helpful, especially for longer multipitches when. Posted by u/droznig - 5 votes and 22 comments They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you feel strongly, I’d love to hear why. Posted by u/JimAnchower - 34 votes and 43 comments Cams from 000-4 and doubles form 0. 25 votes, 13 comments. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 00A, it's just in either "Manual 6" or "Auto" modes that it keeps changing the offset (between -0. The document has moved here. 2/0. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I don’t have the Halfnuts currently but I am considering them for the 1 placement of every 50 that won’t take an offset. 4, doubles for . Aug 9, 2020 路 The DMM Alloy Offset is kind useless in parallel cracks but very good on tapered. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre 29 votes, 54 comments. Like all DMM gear they have a high breaking strength, sometimes twice to that of the competition. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. 41 votes, 20 comments. For cams, I'm a big fan of offsets as well, but it depends where you climb. All of that in one big bag. I also use DMM walnuts and offsets. I also got rid of regular nuts when I got a rack of DMM offsets. I originally bought offset cams exclusively for aid climbing and maybe it was a mental thing but I didn’t really take them on free routes. 2 and 0. 1/0. I purchased some dmm offset nuts and the quality and care into the design and manufacture that goes into them is astounding. g. 4 to 3, stoppers, maybe a half dozen alpine draws, and another half dozen quick draws. Please feel free to add to the list. You don't really need them, but then again you don't really need cams to begin with for a lot of routes. DMM Peanuts as an option, since they weigh nothing. 5 camming angle as per the original Friends, which should in theory give more holding power for a little less range. Offsets are less useful in rock with more regular joints like columnar basalt. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. 3 - 4 as a bomber starter rack. Additionally, nuts aren’t that much, consider getting some DMM offset wallnuts A friend of mine with a similar level of experience just got 5 cams (. Open to all recommendations and tips, as I am here to learn 馃檪. Good luck! Get out to Seneca and Old Rag too, they are grrrreat. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. Normally my buddy and I share our racks to double our pro so I figured I'd ask! I fucked up the wires on my 5 and 10 BD stoppers. They can be more difficult to clean though. Sport draws. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. 6-8 alpine draws (60cm). 1 Friends and Zero Friends (Bomber and love using them, extendabpe sling ftw) I'm looking to get either DMM Dragonfly (0. Reasonable price too! Love the DMM HB offsets. It takes a bit to develop an eye In val di mello my perfect (money not an issue) rack would be; Dmm dragon . The metolius Ultralight Cruve nut is what I carry, though I keep stealing the GF's DMM offsets. Get app 1. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. I have been borrowing my buddies passive… 43 votes, 38 comments. r/tradclimbing A chip A close button. 4 sets of wiregates at £30 each. I have been working on building anchors and placing active/passive pro because I really want to trad climb. 2 . Im heading to Red Rock in a few weeks for the first time. A couple double length draws (120cm). Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 139 votes and 66 comments and after reading all the feedback, talking to some other trad climbing friends, and going to Bent Gate to look at all the options I decided the thing that makes the most sense is more Black Diamond cams, so I now have C3s in 0, 1, 2, C4s from 0. Paying any more is unnecessary. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Dmm Wallnuts or DMM offsets are superior in my opinion to the BD nuts. DMM offset alloys and brassies are a cheaper option than a whole set of offset cams. DMM alloy offsets and brassies all day. I live in NC. I would pay retail for those nuts instead of buying BD nuts. 4/. Have heard good things about Metolius Mastercams, heard the new X4s are out and shiny but expensive. I'm planning to buy some pro (a mix of cams and… Posted by u/joedeltron - 1 vote and 3 comments How many gear loops do you have? What goes on each one? Do you use a gear sling? Do you rearrange depending on the climb? Jun 19, 2015 路 The DMM Alloy Offsets are nearly twice as strong as the WC Superlight Offsets (12kn vs. I like the BD Oz but this is totally personal preference. In the . 7kn) and BOTH sides of the DMM have offset taper. 1-. I generally prefer the brass ones to the Peenuts. About 15 ft total fall (6ish feet above my last piece of pro, plus about 40 feet up already). A really easy to place cam and you just have so many options for flaring placements. BD offset micro nuts are decent though. Apr 13, 2025 路 If the DMM alloy offsets came in a wider range of sizes, these would be our top pick. Its heavy on top of the other stuff that goes in my pack. Get the other brand for the doubles. One of those and some slings and screwgates and you could be set for most easy trad for like £200. 3 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Armatron in Red Rocks), or if I just want to carry more nuts/conserve cams. Guys on Mountain Project sell new in package C4 starter pack (. 101 votes, 49 comments. 2 and sometimes the plastic piece that guides the trigger wires can be troublesome in tight places. I was able to get the hexes and stoppers both used for a great deal online, and then slowly bought cams one at a time when able or when deals/coupons came up. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I have a set of hexes, long pieces of webbing, BD nuts, DMM offsets, BD cams from 000-4 doubles in 0. The DMM Offsets are also larger sized offsets in that the WC is only offset in its narrow side. I can imagine with a little experimentation you might find something that is great on your local rock type. Seems like a simple first project with scope to be enjoyable. Crypto The standard rack I bring for free climbing includes DMM wallnuts, alloy offsets, and peenuts. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. I… I originally bought offset cams exclusively for aid climbing and maybe it was a mental thing but I didn’t really take them on free routes. Not much to choose between them but they use the same colour coding, so when it's time to double up you can buy the other set, have a bit more variety and still having matching colours. After buying dmm alloys and peanuts, I stopped carrying the regular set and have never looked back. Gym climber looking to get outside next spring, mostly in the northeast USA. wild country DMM - I climbed on a few for a day and I swear to god it looked like someone had taken a jackhammer to them. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. 10 votes, 24 comments. Dmm hb alloy offsets Dmm peenuts. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. I really like my WC Zero's for 0. 1 Zero friends offsets (Super bomber I love them) DMM Torque nuts (They sit at home ;) ) Tricams (I love them lightweight and bomber) DMM Wallnuts, DMM Offsets, DMM Peenuts (Love them all! Didin't try the peenuts yet new addition!) 3 to . 5-#2, #3 I mainly climb around Boulder, CO but I can cover most climbs in the area with just my rack. Jan 6, 2020 路 Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. The offsets fit in such a huge variety of placements, it’s extremely rare that I find a placement for a standard nut that won’t take a DMM offset. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. How many of you use a second set of nuts? offset nuts and offset cams might be a better purchase if you are doing anything with pin scars. It's just not really true - they can actually be quite insecure, particularly in splitter That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. Offset cams are expensive. com has a bunch of gear 25% off including fixe aliens and DMM nuts. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. Depending on where you climb you might need alpine draws for every placement. I’ve read a ton of articles and reviews and even searched through old posts on this thread. it's dangerous. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 2K votes, 171 comments. With DMM Alloy Offset you need to bring regular nuts because you don't have it. ) My standard that I usually bring is: BD Nuts. I use them way Nov 23, 2021 路 I often leave the regular Wallnuts on the ground. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). Posted by u/seal_eggs - 6 votes and 18 comments . Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Well either you're a prodigy or fearless, nice. My rack is currently a mix of BD, wild country and DMM cams, and if I were to start from scratch now I'd probably go all DMM. 3, . Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. 54 votes, 32 comments. If your home crag is trout creek, you probably are better served with standard nuts. I use them way more often than regular nuts. The DMM color coding is also more accurate in its offset size as a blue DMM is roughly the same size as a blue Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. 1 to 0. In my experience, offsets fit in every placement that a regular but fits, but the same isn’t true of the reverse. For the peenuts I usually only carry the #4 and 5. DMM offsets are some of the most amazing passive pro I have ever used. The WC is more versatile but gives slightly less option in flare cracks, however with more sizes in the sets isn't bad. ). I started of with a full set of Wild Country Hexes, BD stoppers, and DMM Offsets. Someone to teach you how to use this and smack you upside the head when you do poor placements DMM Alloy Offsets (double in the yellow - #7?) and the largest DMM offset brassy or two. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). We are hoping to get on some easy trad single and multi pitches. and everything else necessary for basic trad climbing (nut tool, non-lockers, lockers, etc. DMM Offsets. However, a partner has DMM offsets and to get something different I got BD offsets and the BD's offsets are junk. 8 cams (Bd . 75-2, sport draws, alpine draws, locking biners, slings, nut tool, prusik. And I really love them nuts. A couple ropes. American that usually is aiding or climbing granite. 002A but never zero) and I noticed that the bar graph tries to go up as if was actually reading something (a tiny amount) and then it goes back, also the polarity symbol beside the range bar Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. My research has shown that black diamond camalot C4's are… DMM alloy offset nuts #7-11. DMM Dragonflies in the three smallest sizes. Dmm dragon 2s. A new leader prob won't appreciate them for the first year or so. The breaking strength is significantly higher in comparable sizes, so they're much more confidence-inspiring for free climbing. 3-. I find I place offset nuts more than standard, but that's a personal choice. Personally, I was considering picking up the DMM offsets for 25% off… I have a set of BD nuts, DMM offset nuts, BD C4s from 0. 7 and down. You should be climbing with a partner that brings their set of c4s so it's likely that you will have doubles in the c4 range. Alpine draws. I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. Irregular is better. Have done most of my trad climbing on sandstone. Hi, I bought 3 of the small offset Z4s recently, and I have to say I love them so far. Pink and red tricams are the most useful of the tricams, others you can live without. I currently have a pretty normal single rack-- C4's from . 3 to 3 is the standard advice. All kinked and insane looking. Thinking about picking up… Posted by u/denuted - 3 votes and 13 comments Steep and cheap. Posted by u/RyCalll - 1 vote and 25 comments Posted by u/Dank3509 - 34 votes and 68 comments DMM are using the "industry standard" 13. BD micro stoppers and offset micro stoppers #3-6 each if the route calls for small pro BD regular nuts #3-11 if the route lends itself to stoppers (e. Apr 23, 2020 路 Sam Skovgaard wrote: I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. All the alloy offsets are fine to whip on. 20 votes, 88 comments. It held like an absolute boss. Right now I have most of the bigger sizes through a collection of BD and WC Heliums and have a couple smaller ones (one older DMM and one BD c3) but could use some more small pieces. DMM does a nice starter set with small nuts, big nuts, offset nuts and hexes, I found one for about £150. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). I like DMM wallnuts, and my gf is Welsh; what are the equivalents so I can begin the replacement… Pretty much always carry a set of DMM offsets. DMM offset but set (7-11) would set you up nicely. 1-pink tricam. The DMM Wallnuts provide some of the offset functionality of the DMM Alloy offset, a curved nut that comes in slightly different shapes, with the added benefit of the wide range of sizes. Crypto 11 votes, 19 comments. I use them a lot at eldo, lumpy, and most other granite. I don't have much first hand experience of the dragonflys but a close friend of mine found them "too floppy" and traded them in for z4s 57 votes, 30 comments. They are a pain to clean though, and I wish they came in the same colours ass wc/dmm since I already know those colours! Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. I paid retail for a full set of DMM offsets (alloy and brass) and #1-11 wallnuts over getting BD nuts at cost. I’d rather not buy things twice so I’d rather spend the money and get the best stuff I can. 1 and . Probably 2 more alpine draws 1. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. 3 . I've heard good things about the Dragons, and from what I understand the colors match and the ranges overlap nicely with the BD C4s. 16 votes, 27 comments. 75 (so the 0. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. I cannot recommend the DMM micro nuts enough. Nothing's too noob for me lol I just primarily climb at Devils Lake which has a no bolting policy. Anyway, . The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. For those that trust the reviews outdoorgearlab has a review of the black diamond nut and the best nuts of 2022. 003A and -0. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 3-4 equivalent)/ $10 nut tool Mtnoutlet. 75 sizes, totems are my go to (black to green). 3) for $150. 5-3 camalots) and 5 nuts (dmm offsets) so the other day we went to rumbling bald in NC and did some mixed routes where we practiced placing gear but with the safety of there being bolts to clip too. Crypto DMM HB Brass Offsets (sizes 2-6 I believe, but I may have gone 0-6) DMM HB Alloy Offsets (7-11) BD x4 . Well there’s the usual wallnuts and hb offsets but I’ve recently become quite fond of metolius curve nuts, they seem to almost work like an offset nut, and are fairly intuitive to place (to me at least). id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. Reply DMM offset nuts are GOLD but a bit expensive. 2/. Sorry just read you were only looking for nut recommendations. 3-3 Wild country zero friends . I wish I would have purchased all dmm cams after using those nuts and seeing that dmm factory tour video. 1-0. 3 C3 from 000 to 2 DMM Walnuts DMM Offset walnuts DMM Peenuts DMM IMP's Tricam set black to red. Some outdoor guiding services have their tried and true "guide picks" on their gear list, what gear do you find to be the best of the best in your… Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. / $30 wild country rocks 1-8/ $53 dmm offsets/ $464. I've not used the WC rocks, though I hear they are great. In addition to the walnuts and offsets Get some tri-cams! They are really useful in NC. £6 on the cordage. I've been thinking about doubling my big cams with DMM Dragons from 00 to 6. Id go with either WC or DMM. Changing the range to "Manual 10" gets me 0. Totems are good, but they only go up to 2, and some people don’t like the wobbly stem on the 2. Full set of DMM Offsets and Full set of DMM Peenuts Alpine draws, I don’t know how many I should have but I can make 6-12 to have a set. Personally I would go z4 + c4, 0. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. One full set of Totems C4 0. Gearexpress. Hey all, sorry about the late thread. You have to build an anchor. Black Diamond C4 cams for the rest. Firstly, with 5 stoppers in each set of the BDs and DMMs, the size range for the BDs sort of begins with one size smaller than the largest DMM and ends with one size smaller than the smallest DMM so the sets compliment each other nicely. Obviously they still worked and it doesn't impact anything really, but it was kinda wild. If ya wanna lead there its gotta be trad. my goal (obviously) is to get the best and safest equipment for the least amount of money. 3 to 3, a set of nuts (dmm alloy offsets), and a set of 4 tricams. Easy to find great placements where other nuts might not place at all. Business, Economics, and Finance. At the gunks, I started with black diamond C4 0. Skip to main content Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 139 votes and 66 comments 25 votes, 13 comments. Love my DMM dragons. 1 but DMM Dragonflies would be a good alternative. Get the big ones and the tiny ones (like DMM peenuts, e. And yes we are scared of falling. The smallest wallnut I usually carry is the #2. Certainly getting the Wallnuts wouldn't hurt. Probably closer to £1200, so €1350. true 1. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. 4. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. 3/. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. Same story if you're ever tempted by a set of offsets. 3 and . Readers to the thread without questions, climbing anything interesting this weekend? …. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Or check it out in the app stores Offset nuts! I like the DMM offsets (and peenuts). Doubles of C4 in 0. I have the smaller sizes as well, but it's rare for me to use them. Very confidence inspiring and it's nice to see they make all their gear in house and not in a Chinese factory that I pretty much have your rack but with offset nuts, some smaller gear, and no 5 and 6. 8x 60cm slings, 2x 120cm slings, 1x 240cm sling. I'd also get a set of offset. £50 per cam puts £450 in cams, then torque nuts are what? £30? Those sling sets are £35 each, £12 per locker (x6), draws were probably £160, nuts are £75 per set, offsets about £45, nut key £10, pivot is £35. 75-2. 75 Wild country friends 1-4 Dmm wall nuts 1-11 or wild country rocks 1-11 Maybe doubles of the mid sizes of nuts if you do long pitches. 1. if you're climbing pretty straight up routes then sport climbing quickdraws might work (splitter cracks, any route that just goes in a straight vertical line), but if your route wanders at all, which most moderate multipitch routes do, you'll need to extend every placement. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Posted by u/Infinite_Toilet - 2 votes and 18 comments Well, in actuality, the Black Diamond offsets are quite different and unique in several ways (see pictures). Ideal Cascade Trad Rack the DMM offsets 7-11 are my go to set around here, esp in Index. I… DMM calls their smaller offsets Peenuts and the larger sizes are just Offsets. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. For extending placements and anchor building. Full set of BD nuts (including the smallest three sizes). I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. That we use when needed. If you don't mind buying used gear in near new condition, PM me and I can give you the email of my guy. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments 23 votes, 20 comments. I’m on fairly moderate trad grades, 5. It gives enough tapered placements for almost all situations. 3 to 3, plus a few C3s (micros) in 0-2. and to also get a set of nuts in the middle range but purchase DMM offsets or wallnuts. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. DMM Offset nuts. 2 BD C4 . 4 to 4 X4 from 0. A couple years ago i forgot a bin and ropegunned nutcracker with just those and a rack of nutsnow I take them up almost everything. Eventually I'll get another . 23 votes, 20 comments. Also way cheaper than spring loaded cams! Looks like you might have a gap between that offset and blue alien, I use those sizes a good bit in NC. My next pro to get is a #4, followed by second #3. 1) for $200 or I can pick up some Z4 offsets (0. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. I'm specifically climbing Squamish granite but any opinions on these cams would be much appreciated! Posted by u/un_poco_lobo - 9 votes and 26 comments Z4 + C4 is a great rack to have. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango I only carry offset nuts anymore. Single or double set, depending on length of routes, and how often you actually use them. 5-3, and some BD Hexs. 4. The home of Climbing on reddit. Set of DMM offset nuts. Moved Permanently. Personally, I was considering picking up the DMM offsets for 25% off… Business, Economics, and Finance. u/EnvironmentalSalad40 A chip A close button. Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. Hello friends! So I am looking to starting my first rack. I like DMM stuff cos it’s 100% designed for British trad but there’s nothing wrong with other brands. I don’t think it’s objectively true that offsets have lower holding power, though. When in need my belay partner have a full set of dragon cams as well as C4's. mvuqyifcpyspowozttdhwmuykmpixquvbtjvcmutdvqcuhgmi