Climbing grip positions reddit You can be a super strong person and suck at short version : Climb fast, place feet well, train core, don't overstretch, climb with stretched arms, don't readjust grip, and use advanced climbing techniques like knee bars, toe hooks, heel hooks, drop knees. Climbing? Grip the hoods. Pinch - Pinch is obvious and used in climbing Crush - Grippers like yours, Captains of Crush, and others fit into this category Crush grip training does not really help climbing all that much because it's mostly crush and climbing is mostly support and pinch. Not a colored belt but I came to BJJ straight from rock climbing and I sucked at everything. Attempted Solutions: Wrist pushups, wrist curls, and rice bucket, but the issue still persists. Ive been climbing for a year now and your second paragraph described me exactly when i first started hangboarding several months ago. I'd recommend testing out different positions with feet on the ground to figure out what feels least painful. I think locking off is pretty inherently anti-3fd just due to awkward wrist position but it's still possible. "Types" of grips are mostly just made up names to try to get everyone speaking the same language. Jul 13, 2021 · A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. Do not rush climbing, many people try to climb too hard too fast with poor technique and destroy their fingers/develop tendonitis in their arms. Keep massaging any areas in your hand that have pain/tenderness, so that you can remind your body to repair it faster. I expect the false grip to be the gold standard for sloper strength soon with the wrist wrench/arm wrestling protocols as a stepping stone. Yves’ insight seemed particularly important to me considering he would be extremely extremely experienced at climbing on slopers, has strong fingers, excellent technique, and very few people in the world can compete with his forearm flexion strength (world grip champion, you can’t even argue). Absolutely. Once the grip position changed it seemed like it was a matter of seconds before I'd fail. If you can do pull-ups on a 6mm edge but only hang 133% 2 armed half crimp on a 20mm I think there's likely a big discrepancy in your strength in different grip positions. I've recently been trying to build a hangboarding regiment, but am concerned that this may cause issues as it trains the muscles I've already conditioned through climbing regularly, not the ones I'm neglecting. Grip trainers don't come even remotely close to the sort of hand positions you use when climbing. I've got a lot of strength in a neutral grip, but have found that I'm really weak in certain positions, and others can cause pain. The amount of core that goes into climbing positions is unreal. Due to some external circumstances I took a month away from the gym in which I focused exclusively on hangboarding, and when I came back to the gym basically started climbing only the spray wall and system boards with a focus on limit climbs, moves, and positions and less focus on hangboarding. I really like fat grip farmers walks and other large implements, rolling thunder, all that stuff. I try to hold positions on grip training tools to mimic isometric training. Speaking of, slopey crimps dependent on body position are perfect for 3fd. I wrestling you want grip strength. The drag could easily be much stronger grip for you since you have trained it for so much longer. Use your other hand to manipulate the crimping fingers into the full crimp position (all PIP joints, including the pinkie, at 90 degrees) while you pull Same with any other grip positions if you don't use or train them often. Recently I've started incorporating hangboarding with different grip positions (other than just half crimp). When you are climbing (or even better, for your goal route), what grip position do you usually use? So, everyone knows you should do your max hang training with a half crimp position of the fingers. This is why many pro climbers speak about training 2F grips on the hangboard leading up to a project with pockets. Something as simple as rest day density hangs (3hangs of 45 seconds) and when I say hangs it might be no hangs or feet on floor. I have small-ish hands and have been crimping as my main grip position for 5+ years. My grip position is half crimp with first pad of fingers and thumb. Grip strength, like any strength, requires highly specific training. Jan 31, 2022 · Grab hold of an edge – it could be the edge of a table, a door frame or a chair – and try to form a crimp grip with your hand: notice the position that your fingers naturally end up in. When you test max hangs what is the grip position you use? Most metrics report a strict half crimp - that is index/middle/ring at 90 degrees. Hand position makes a huge difference-also the biggest dataset (lattice) is largely tested on a 20mm wood edge with a large radius Feb 14, 2022 · Grip it with a relaxed hand. In that case, 3 finger drag is probably a great candidate (and then front three/back three in half crimp). except grips. Windy? Drop to the drops. But pure, absolute strength in a position isn't necessarily what each grip is mainly about. I trust hyper-extension. That's where I thought the cARCing concept (which I was initially sceptical about) might be worth trying. Stronger crimp position will come to you just from climbing more, but you can also work on wrist and finger strength for which there are ton of videos out there. I would suggest spending significantly more effort on the half crimp, or any other very active grip position when training. If you're cruxing on open grips for 10 moves in a row, that grip position will be very tired but you will still be able to full crimp pretty well. If you are doing big moves on steep terrain you’re training your pulling strength. Yup. Climbers have about as many words to describe shapes in the rock and how we grip them as ace-climber Adam Ondra has screams. Situational, but being able to drop your body and hips deep under a hold, like the body position for slopers, is best for 3fd. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. I've considered doing modified wrist pushups and curls in a more "false grip" position, but it's awkward and I haven't done it long enough to see if it works. If you get your fingers strong in that crimp position in a controlled environment, you'll actually be reducing your likelihood of injury when you really have to bear down on a crimp outside. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. Avoid dropping the pinky, any dynamic move on slopers (careful of slopers overall avoid at first), juggy/slopey holds, open hand/open hand with ANY risk of the pinky coming off or even losing some traction/tension. Ass is hurting? Use a position that puts weight on your upper body. 2 and 3 finger grip positions have also been useful. I bet if you spend some more time climbing this and recording yourself climbing it you’ll be able to actually see what your do differently on your successful attempts and what feels better for you. My understanding with those grip trainers is that people in the 80/90s tried to use them for strength training for climbing but it was shown to be ineffective (lack of specificity?). I was wondering if anyone would be able to highlight some of the basic common types of holds. If I was in this scenario I would begin a healthy dose of hangboarding focusing on the full crimp and 3F drag grips, probably low intensity density hangs at Current evidence suggests climbing with other grip types is potentially safer than full crimping and gets you stronger than pure full crimping does. Then you could extend to “slimper” (sloping crimp), “finger bucket” (big incut) and some of us old climbers still refer to really large slopers as “pushers” since that company introduced them back in the 90’s. 9 months later, I have definitely seen improvement To me the position you are in is a mix of half crimp and open and to me it does look a bit wrong. Half crimp and crimp with all 4 fingers on-- can be done at full power after a week or two. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Feb 24, 2023 · Photo: Beast Fingers Climbing Using a straight back, engage your shoulders and lift with control through your legs and engaged arm, keeping your other arm behind you; lower back to your starting position Photo: Beast Fingers Climbing While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp The False Grip for rings skills in gymnastics trains the same muscles but in a way that's more transferable to climbing IMO. Expanding on this could add volumes as another major hold type. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Black belt instructors couldn't break my grips. Let’s take a look at each one, from the perspective of technique, and with a brief focus on supportive training. Then comes a strength and power section—on-the-wall exercises, finger strength and fingerboarding, arm workouts and more. The reality is that everyone's hands are different, and that grips will look different from person to person. As a coach I couldn't agree more, and as little as 2 - 4 warm up hangs, practicing different grip positions can go a thousand miles for some climbers. I'll often grab the hold with 4 fingers, but to get in position to actually properly hold it, I'll have to drop the pinky. May 18, 2022 · The Climbing Bible begins with a primer on technique, with emphasis on footwork, grip positions, balance, direction of force and dynamics. Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. Now I only use a ring grip only on the absolute smallest of crimps and usually only when making serious red point ascents. You have to train specific grips--pinch grip, crimp, open crimp, etc. I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. Hangboards (used with proper load) are far safer than climbing on a route/boulder due to the ability to control the position (no accidental foot slips/lunging for holds/etc). I'm going to guess that you probably revert to full crimping everything when you're actually climbing Vs when you're training. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. You’re doing better than a lot of people by recognizing your weaknesses, now take it a step further and analyze what makes those difficult moves Climbing on limestone is my favorite, so I figured trying to bulletproof my hands to pocket strains wasn’t a bad idea. " I think that understanding which of your grips (at any given time) are stronger/weaker relative to the others and relative to other people at the grades you're climbing can help guide what to train in order to shore up a weakness. Compounding on that, it's pretty likely that you favor your strong grip while actually climbing, so despite the recent 7 months of stimulus, your 3 finger drag could simply be much more advanced than any of your grips utilizing 4 fingers. The numerous positions we can contort our fingers and hands over various rock shapes is astounding. Before that, I was dealing with a hard sequence on an open 3 finger pocket, so I trained open 3. Not upright enough? Heighten your stem. I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. You should train whichever grip position is most specific to your goal. I full crimp all the time outside when climbing near or above my limit. I used to use a ring grip 80-90% of the time, but made a conscious effort to work open hand slopers and open hand crimps and my strength and climbing grades have increased considerably for it. Currently, my goal boulder is a full crimp festival, so I'm training full crimp. Generally, aim to keep your wrist neutral as much as possible. Do what works for you and don't worry about what it's called. Sprinting/need stability? Hook the hooks. Disagree, I think the most important position, especially for people who haven't hangboarded before is the 4 finger open-hand/drag. Really easy but odd grip strength training would be use a screwdriver to screw screws into wood. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. Isometric training doesn't make the muscle grow the same way as concentric. Not enough leverage? Get wider bars. That rock climbing shit is legit. Regardless, if you opt to continue training the drag grip, I'd recommend: /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Usually, there are many different ways to grip a sloper, and some will cause more discomfort than others. Strong wrists are stable wrists, your fingers may be able to hold the edge but you need the hand strength to keep the fingers in position, especially on awkward holds. Tldr. I am pretty new to bouldering/rock climbing and I often hear people talking about different types of holds at my indoor gym I go to. There are a couple of specific techniques that I think can be described in simple words for slopers: Keep your center of mass as directly below the hold as possible, this will often involve dropping your hips below it and extending your arms straight over your head. That's very cheap and easy to do. For climbing though, grip training equipment you're describing also violates the Rule of Sport Specificy: You get good at what you do. In climbing you are more working on grip endurance and holding specific hand positions; you're not looking to strengthen your ability to hold onto something wrist sized I've seen some moderate gains using the Crimpd sessions but I definitely try to mirror a sort of halfway approach to grip position by not deviating my thumb to either pinky/index side dramatically. I’ve always found it difficult to make the core stronger just with climbing unless you take a lot of care to put a lot of mental energy into recruiting it on the wall. I have noticed a huge relative difference between the different grip positions and I am curious about how your ratios between grip types appear. However, now when I am doing moves that require open hand grips, I almost instinctually switch to a 3 finger drag on the We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If you are climbing on hard moves on small holds, your training your finger strength. On difficult routes, aim to get to each jug, shake, and recalibrate your mind. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Because it's easier to maintain under load. Also core strength. I train bjj 2-4x a week and climb outside or inside 1-3x a week. Avoid painful grip positions on slopers. I recently listen to a podcast with Dan Varian, a mentor of Aidan Roberts and co-founder of Beastmaker, talking about the outcome of different types of grips on the strength of the individual fingers in relation to their position (flexed in dip or open) and how this is often reflected in climbing styles. The only finger injury I have had is from training 3 finger open hand on too small an edge. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. First, stop all climbing until you can use basic non-drag 4-finger and 5-finger grip positions without pain. Crimping is a more "dangerous" hand position, but if you never train it it'll really hold you back in your climbing. Full crimps should be strengthened on a hangboard. I've never looked at a hold and thought "hmm, I should use a half crimp here. I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. It is true that you will gain strength in specific isometric position while hanging in that position but if you want to make the muscle grow and get stronger then concentric is the best way to do this. It worked! My 3 finger drag got ALOT stronger, and I feel no tweakiness in both drag/2 finger positions. It requires practice. See full list on gripped. Opening and closing a spring-laden grip is not the way to be a better climber. I only flex grip 75% to avoid full crimp position. Seconded. You just have to be good at regulating yourself since, as you said, it doesn’t really hurt to climb on. I wouldn't say that if someone is actively training half crimp off the wall, for instance on a hangboard, that the next grip position to train would be 4-fingers open. Find something heavy and hold it as long as possible, variable grips if possible. . I used to have one when I climbed, it wouldn't translate that well to wrestling. I'm wondering if this is just too different than the typical climbing grip? On larger edges, the drag grip looks very much like a pocket grip; on small (or sloping) edges, it looks like a sloper grip. I can personally say I went from full crimping everything to trying to half crimp everything and I got way stronger, but YMMV. It will improve your balance and body awareness for sure. Neutral wrist positions such as crimps and normal climbing are fine. Also, I find that I call on a lot of rock climbing muscle memory whenever I'm defending with my legs in guard. You hold a sloper differently than a crimp. My hope is that the moderate grip position has carryover a few degrees on either side of middle, etc. In either case the little finger is not trained, leading to poor transfer on four-finger edges. Open crimp is a great tool to have, and a great performance grip position. com May 10, 2022 · Who would think that there could be four different ways to perform the simple task of gripping an edge, but that’s climbing for you. Your lower palms/wrists are hurting? Grab the tops. I know the pinky is responsible for an insane amount of grip strength and I feel like it's starting to limit my abilities. Lack of strength in your forearms, wrists and fingers could absolutely be causing this. Now, training grip strength is not the easiest thing to train. Just backing off of extreme grip positions for 2-4 weeks(a couple have taken 6-8 weeks) always solves it for me. 8RM sets gives the best results. I find it particularly useful in pinch training. Pull-ups/chin-ups will help, dead hangs are good. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip These are the only kind of pulley injuries that I’ve ever experienced. Everyone's hand is different though. Climbing is, I would venture to say, majority a skills sport. Riding around town? Ramps. Around 50 seconds into it my wrists started failing and the bar rotated back so my grip position changed. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. It feels awkward, and putting my pinky on the hold feels like it limits my grip strength. You can't just train your "forearms" because they contain many different muscles. Same muscles at different lengths of contraction. ect. I never even really got pumped like I normally would during climbing. pxmdwpzd fxoppux ujdso dgmdul zeminweyu ssphywi xuwfa ipmdbqfp zxizmlf lidyvy